1
As I stroll along the shore, I’m hit by a mix of salty sea air mingles and the scent of coconut sunblock a beachgoer is applying. Kids squeal and laugh as they dive nose-first into the ocean from their boogie boards. I stick out, clad in my sun shirt and hiking shorts among all the people in bathing suits. My trail runners dangle from my backpack, tied in a double-knot; I’m barefoot on my quest to hike 20 miles of the surprisingly rugged Southern California coastline from Laguna Beach to San Clemente. This evening, I’ll stay at the Dana Point Marina Inn with my two hiking companions, outdoor author Tom Courtney and his wife, Heidi, indulging in a full night’s rest at an oceanside lodge before the next day’s trek.
While roughing it in minimal tents on misshapen ground is the norm for American backpackers, inn-to-inn hiking lets a trekker luxuriate with a hot meal and a plush bed at the end of a long foot-sore day. While an inn isn’t as thrifty as a $25-a-night campsite, it sure is more comfortable. Across Europe, inn-to-inn hiking is popular: the Cotswolds in England, the Dolomites in Italy, the Tour du Mont Blanc across France, Switzerland and Italy are all trod by thousands every year. And it’s nothing new — think the Christian pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela, Jerusalem and Rome of the Middle Ages, for starters.
These hikes showcase Southern California’s best ocean views, from Huntington Beach to Malibu
But the tradition is not as popular in the U.S., where inns are farther apart, towns may offer less sightseeing than in the bucolic hamlets of the Cotswolds, and campsites are more prevalent because there is more wild land. A few guide companies, such as Foot Paths of the World and Wildland Trekking, offer inn-based hiking tours in Colorado, Alaska or Maine, but much of American inn-to-inn hiking is self-guided, with the help of such books as “Walkabout Malibu to Mexico: Hiking Inn to Inn on the Southern California Coast” by Tom Courtney. The author created a site called Walkabout California, which hosts tips and a forum where hikers can swap info such as parking options and the depth of water crossings.
California is ideal for the beginner walkabout; in fact, you can walk the length of the state (Courtney covers parts of this in “Walkabout Northern California”). The state’s shores offer temperate-weather hiking with views of dramatic cliffs, crashing waves, pelagic birds such as the blue-footed booby and several species of sandpiper, and native wildflowers.
“Walking on the Southern California coast, you walk through busy beaches, but then you have long stretches of shoreline all to yourself, and the dominant force is the mighty Pacific, which is untameable,” Tom Courtney says. “There’s so much wildlife — shorebirds, migrating whales, seals, sea lions, dolphins. Before I did the hike, I didn’t think of the Southern California coast as being that abundant with wildlife.”
For my two-day trip with the Courtneys, I tucked everything I needed, including electrolyte powder packets, protein bars, trail mix, an empty water bottle (to mix electrolytes into), a couple of PB&J sandwiches, a swimsuit, a phone charger, a mini first aid kit, a bar of laundry soap, a light puffer jacket rolled into its pocket and a change of clothing (bring some carabiners to hang your shoes or wet clothes on the outside of your hiking backpack) into a 24-liter backpack with a three-liter water reservoir, which I finished in one day’s hike and needed to refill only after I reached the hotel in the evening. (For a longer inn-to-inn hike, you might want a 30-liter or larger backpack, but if you’re hiking on sunny days or know the inns have laundry facilities, you can still get by with just one change of clothing.) I carefully considered my clothing for performance on this trip (sweat-wicking, quick-drying, lightweight and sun-protective). At the hotel, I dumped sand out of my trail runners, washed my light running shirt, waterproof sun shirt, hiking shorts and breathable socks in the sink and hung them out to dry on my hotel balcony.
From L.A. to San Francisco Bay, from the Gold Country to the Wine Country, the California state parks system showcases a fabulous array of nature’s handiwork.
Several of these routes are for experienced hikers; prepare ahead of time by hiking six to 10 miles a week (break that up into several three-mile hikes if it’s easier) rucking with the near same weight pack you’d carry on your hike. Although most of the terrain is flat or low elevation, you’ll be hiking long distances at times, up to 12 to 15 miles. If you can’t finish your day’s hike, book another inn or call a rideshare to bring you to the next hotel. If you tend to take your time (or have kids), figure out a shorter hike and book a closer inn. It should be mentioned you can do this all in one go or mix-and-match any of these sections as you see fit.
But the biggest challenge may be the nonhiking parts: restrooms and parking. Regarding the latter, if you’re flying, or taking a bus or train in for the hike, book a rideshare or a taxi to your starting point. If you’re driving, however, do some research to see whether there’s an inn or parking garage where you can park for the duration of your trip. On the hike, keep an eye out for public beach or restaurant restrooms that you can use.
And always put safety first. Let people know where you’re going and what your route is, and have emergency plans and numbers on hand in case you need help. Plan an early start in summer to beat the heat, and research tide tables to estimate when you can safely hike on a beach. It can’t be understated that the tide in California can be extremely dangerous — as the water rises, the risk for falling, or worse, drowning, does too. Not to mention, you could step on a stingray or a sea urchin. Some of these hikes offer no public boardwalks above the sand, so if you find yourself on a beach where the tide is coming up too high, turn around, find a restaurant and research when the next low tide is, or hike up and walk on streets until you can return to the beach safely. For more safety information, I recommend purchasing Courtney’s book “Walkabout Malibu to Mexico: Hiking Inn to Inn on the Southern California Coast” rather than relying solely on this guide.
For the truly hearty and adventurous (and those who can afford to stay at inns, which aren’t as low cost as they once were, especially in Southern California), you can do this 200-mile trip from northern L.A. County to Imperial Beach in about 21 days. I haven’t listed all the segments of the Southern California Walkabout hike: the original trek goes all the way to the Mexican border, but some sections are temporarily closed. For instance, you’ll have to find a ride for the 23-mile section from San Clemente to Oceanside, as the only way through is via Camp Pendleton, which is closed to the public. Likewise, you’ll need to hop in a car to traverse parts of the Portuguese Bend on the Palos Verdes Peninsula as a landslide has caused trail closures. Check Courtney’s book for the full trip.
2
Stage 1: Santa Monica to Santa Catalina
(Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)
This challenging hike dangles a sweet reward: a luxurious stay at the four-star Terranea Resort (on Day 2 in Palos Verdes). You’ll have good cause for rest: 12- to 13-mile daily hikes that test your endurance, strength and technical ability. Thankfully, the dramatic coastal bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula provide visual stimulation for the long hikes — plus, those Instagram-worthy photos and the breezes to savor.
Trip details
You’ll traverse a variety of terrains, including a wooden boardwalk at the Santa Monica Pier, sand at Playa del Rey and Dockweiler beaches, a grassy promontory at Point Fermin Park and a boulder scramble as you arrive at the Palos Verdes Peninsula.
Day 1: Santa Monica Pier to Manhattan Beach. 12.4 miles.
The route: Take a moment to watch the folks sipping their morning coffee on the Santa Monica Pier as fishermen angle their rods into the Pacific, hoping to catch lunch. Then, turn south and choose your own adventure: Hike on the shore or the paved promenade. Your goal is to get to the Venice Pier, an even more colorful, carnival-like spot with everything from jugglers to bodybuilders. Then, turn inland at the Venice Pier on Washington Boulevard, which you’ll follow as you curve around Marina del Rey.
When you see Mildred Avenue on the left, turn right on the bike path through Yvonne B. Burke Park. Stick to that bike path all the way through Admiralty Way and traverse the library parking lot, then turn right on Fiji Way, which ends at a Coast Guard station. Follow the path to the Ballona Creek channel, turn right and walk along the creek, cross the bridge and head back to the beach. Then, hike the beach or the paved bike path to Manhattan Beach Municipal Pier.
Where to stay: Make reservations for the Sea View Inn at the Beach, where standard rooms are typically $220 to $250. Or splurge at the Shade Hotel, where you can get a room for $498 weekdays and $529 per night on the weekend.
Where to eat: Nab a Hang Ten pie (basically a Meat Lover’s) at Beach Pizza or a Black and Blue burger at Sloopy’s Beach Cafe.
Day 2: Manhattan Beach to Long Point, Palos Verdes Peninsula. 13.3 miles.
The route: This is your longest day, so get an early start with coffee, an omelet and a tall stack at Uncle Bill’s Pancake House. Your route today heads either along the beach or a bike path lined with colorful coastal abodes, leading you to the Hermosa Beach Municipal Pier, where you can catch some heated volleyball matches. Then, it’s on to King Harbor, where the beach ends and the bike path goes inland. Walk on Herondo Street and turn right on Harbor Drive until its terminus, then forge on through the ground floor of a parking structure until you reach Veteran’s Park, where you’ll pivot back toward the water and Redondo Beach.
Living inside the Rancho Palos Verdes landslide zone: Darkness, propane, batteries and determination
Patty Perkinson is not ready to give up on her Rancho Palos Verdes home — despite the active landslide causing untold damage and now the loss of vital utilities.
Keep going on the shore to Torrance County Beach, then Malaga Cove, where you’ll turn right on Paseo Del Mar until it ends at Palos Verdes Drive West, then bear right on Paseo Del Mar West. Turn right on Via Anacapa and right to get back on Palos Verdes Drive West, then right on Margarite Drive. Walk through the gate and follow Seascape Trail along the bluffs to Point Vicente. Hike on the western side of Palos Verdes Drive South for 0.2 mile, then take the cliffs trail to Long Point, where you’ll end at the lavish 102-acre Terranea Resort.
Where to stay: Terranea Resort, 100 Terranea Way, Rancho Palos Verdes. This may be the most extravagant stay on any of the Southern California inn-to-inn hikes, with your choice of bungalows, casitas or villas and the option to dine at one of nine restaurants, plus a lavish spa. Rates range from $596 to $790 weekdays and $625 to $914 weekends. It’s a pretty penny, but it’s the only option on this section of the hike.
Where to eat: The options range from casual to formal at Terranea. Nelson’s is great for ceviche and a skirt steak sandwich in a relaxed atmosphere with a view of the ocean, while Mar’sel is oysters and Dover sole.
Day 3: Long Point to San Pedro Ferry Terminal and Santa Catalina Island. 12.3 miles.
The route: The hike originally took you through the Palos Verdes beaches and tide pools. However since July, the beaches and surrounding trails have been closed due to land movement in the Portuguese Bend area. With pedestrian access also closed on much of Palos Verdes Drive South, the only option for continuing the hike is a ride share or Terranea’s free shuttle service to the Trump National Golf Course in Rancho Palos Verdes. From there, head back onto the Catalina Trail and hike toward San Pedro.
Royal Palms County Beach on the hike from Santa Monica to Santa Catalina.
(Tom Courtney)
Continue to Royal Palms County Beach. Here, you’ll come across the ruins of the White Point Hot Springs Hotel, where guests once lounged in hot sulfur spring-fed swimming pools and shimmied the Charleston on the veranda. Then, take the paved road to the bluffs and White Point, following the sidewalk there to Point Fermin Park and Fermin Point. Leave the park and follow Shepard Street to Bluff Place, then turn right on Stephen M. White Drive and right on Oliver Vickery Circle. Stroll through Cabrillo Beach Park and onto Shoshonean Drive, turn right on 22nd Street and left along the waterfront, then continue parallel to Harbor Boulevard to the Vincent Thomas Bridge and the San Pedro Ferry Terminal, where you’ll hop on the one-hour Catalina Streak ferry to Santa Catalina.
Where to stay: Your Avalon accommodation options span from stately grand dames to hip boutique hotels, including the Zane Grey Pueblo Hotel ($322 to $378 weekdays, $322 to $699 weekends), the Bellanca Hotel ($199 to $279 weekdays, $319 to $409 weekends) and the Hotel Metropole ($189 to $289 weekdays, $209 to $309 weekends).
Where to eat: Take turns sampling lobster rolls, clam chowder and fish and chips with your hiking buddies at the Lobster Trap or Bluewater Grill. At the grill, sit outside to take in the sunset over the boats in the marina.
3
Stage 2: Santa Catalina to Newport Beach
Boats in the marina at Avalon Bay, Santa Catalina.
(Tom Courtney)
This walkabout commences on a beautiful island. Enjoy all the delights that Catalina has to offer, including hiking, kayaking and sunning yourself on the beach, before you start your journey.
Trip details
Then, take the pleasant hour-long ferry to Long Beach and start a three-day hike to Newport Beach, stopping in charming Seal Beach and on to Surf City U.S.A., a.k.a. Huntington Beach. You’ll end your sojourn along the ritzy marina of Newport Beach and Balboa Island.
Day 1: Avalon, Santa Catalina to Seal Beach. 8.5 miles.
The route: Day 1 will take you by the busy port of Long Beach and a popular fishing pier, through the gentle canals of Naples Island and on to Seal Beach. Breakfast at the Naughty Fox in Avalon is an indulgent treat (build your own lobster frittata or have the french toast special) before your long day. Catch the Catalina Express ferry to Long Beach. Once there, turn right, heading southeast along the water’s edge, with the water on your right. Walk under the Queensway Bridge, past the Aquarium of the Pacific, through Shoreline Village (where you can stop for coffee at Twisters) and by the Shoreline Marina, to the beach. You can choose to walk the shore at San Pedro Bay or the paved walkway at the top of the beach to Belmont Pier.
Turn inland when you see a solitary blue house at the top of the Belmont Shore beach, then walk up 54th Place or along the shore of Alamitos Bay, then turn right on East 2nd Street and cross the bridge. Turn right on the Toledo and stroll along the canals in the Naples Island neighborhood. Walk five blocks, then down to the canal via the stairs to Canal Rivo Alto. Walk along the canal until you reach the steps at the second bridge, where you’ll head up. Then turn left on East Naples Plaza back to East 2nd Street and turn right. Cross the bridge and angle right on North Marina Drive. Cross the bridge over the San Gabriel River, then turn right on 1st Street. Turn left on Ocean Avenue, or walk on the bike path along the river to the beach. Turn left to Seal Beach Pier.
Where to stay: The Pacific Inn, where rooms are typically $161 to $176 weekdays and $206 to $247 on weekends, or the Hampton Inn & Suites, which usually runs $175 to $189 weekdays and $179 to $230 weekends. The former is only four blocks from the beach and pier, the latter a little over a mile from the pier and three-fourths of a mile from the beach. Both are standard, pet-friendly hotels that offer amenities like a pool and free breakfast, but the Pacific Inn also offers a shuttle within a five-mile radius, making first-come, first-serve trips to the Long Beach Airport, the Queen Mary, the Aquarium of the Pacific, the Long Beach Convention Center and Belmont Shore.
Where to eat: The Beach House’s views and happy hour sliders will replenish you after your long walk. For breakfast, have the eggs Benedict and crepes at the Crema Cafe.
Day 2: Seal Beach to Huntington Beach: 9.2 miles.
The route: Today, you’ll walk 1.6 miles along the Pacific Coast Highway, but a wide bike lane and sand path will shelter you from traffic. You’ll see egrets and herons in the tidal wetlands of the Seal Beach National Wildlife Refuge and perhaps even snowy plovers nestling in the dunes or pecking for insects in the wet sand. Start by hiking south on the beach or paved pathway from Seal Beach Pier to the end of the beach, turning left on Seal Beach Boulevard and right on the PCH. Hike the path adjacent to a wide bike lane, cross a bridge over Anaheim Bay and turn right on Anderson Street to Sunset Beach. Then, hike along the beach if possible or walk one block inland along the grassy promenade adjacent to Sunset Beach, all the way to where the houses at the top of the beach end at Bolsa Chica State Beach. Hike that beach on the shoreline or paved walkway to Huntington Beach Pier, where you’ll be immersed in surf culture and can dine at some of the fun eateries on Main Street and the PCH (Watertable, Pacific Hideaway, ZeroZero39 Pizzeria, the Black Trumpet Bistro Tapas & Wine Bar and the Sugar Shack Cafe, among others).
An Orange County surf competition organizer said transgender athlete Sasha Jane Lowerson couldn’t compete in the women’s division, but changed course after the California Coastal Commission intervened.
Where to stay: Rest your head under photos of surf goddesses at the funky Huntington Surf Inn ($219 to $236 weekdays, $254 to $271 weekends) or the even more reasonably priced but basic Huntington Beach Inn ($160 to $350 weekdays, $205 to $404 weekends). Or, splash out for the stylish boutique vibes (and firepit s’more kits) of the Kimpton Shorebreak Huntington Beach Resort ($244 to $290 weekdays, $321 to $347 weekends) or the Hilton Waterfront Beach Resort ($305 to $347 weekdays, $372 to $418 weekends).
Where to eat: For dinner, replenish with casual tacos at Sancho’s or fancier ones (short rib, for starters) at Sandbar Cocina, plus an ale or two at Four Sons, the Huntington Beach Beer Company or the Surf City Ale House, all stacked along Main Street.
Day 3: Huntington Beach to Newport Beach: 5.8 miles
The route: Enjoy this section on a wide beach, with flat, firm footing, warm waves and ample people-watching. Courtney advises hiking at least part of this day barefoot and in your bathing suit, giving yourself ample opportunities to splash in the waves as you go. Start your day hiking southeast along the shore of Huntington City Beach for a mile and Huntington State Beach for an additional 2.5 miles, or along the paved walkway at the top of the beach, heading toward the Santa Ana River. You may see the California least tern, a protected bird that summers on SoCal beaches and then heads south to Mexico and Central America for the winter. Leave the beach to cross the river and return to Santa Ana River County Beach. The paved walkway will end, and you can stroll through the neighborhoods one block from the beach, returning to the walkway at 36th Street, or continue on the beach all the way to Newport Pier.
Where to stay: Sleep easy at the cozy, antique-strewn Doryman’s Oceanfront Inn ($335 weekdays, $399 most weekends) or the modern Little Inn by the Bay ($145 to $175 weekdays, $152 to $210 weekends).
Where to eat: The Doryman’s, 21 Oceanfront, has a menu carbon-copied from the ’60s (the prices are in line with 2024, however), with oysters Rockefeller, crab cakes and escargot. If that’s not your speed, Siam Station is a beloved local Thai street food spot where you can tuck into a hearty pad thai or khao soi, while Helmsman Ale House has fish and chips, wings and a short rib sandwich.
4
Stage 3: Newport Beach to San Clemente
Approaching Laguna Beach on the hike from Newport Beach to San Clemente.
(Tom Courtney)
This charming stroll will transport you back to the 1930s, through popular Laguna Beach, with its throngs of tourists and stylish art galleries, to Dana Point, where fishing tourism is big business, and finally San Clemente, equally known for its regal Spanish architecture and surf spots.
Trip details
As you amble past the rocky shores, you’ll glimpse seabirds, crabs, lobsters and seals. Here you can swim some of the finest beaches Orange County has to offer, so pack your bikini and swim trunks.
One of the best parts about this hike is getting off the sand and venturing up into the Dana Point Headlands Conservation Area, a 60-acre area with a preserve and a trail system. The trails are flanked by protected fields of unique native plants and animals (the Courtneys and I saw an adorable illustrated sign warning us to stay quiet, because the Pacific pocket mouse might be sleeping nearby), and you’ll be treated to shimmering views of the ocean as you loop through the preserve.
“There are so many beautiful gardens along the Southern California coast, but few protect the native habitat,” Heidi Courtney says. “It is thrilling to hike through the preserve with over 150 native plants and animals. Birds and other pollinators flock to salvia, buckwheat and yarrow. The dramatic silver-leafed Dudleya were blooming gloriously.”
Day 1: Newport Beach to Crystal Cove: 7.2 miles
The route: Start your day by perambulating lazily around the historic Dory Fleet Market, checking out the crab and seafood offerings. For early risers, the market opens at 5:30 a.m. Snag a cronut at the 24-hour Seaside Donuts Bakery or an açai bowl and a Nutella croissant at the Newport Coffee Co., which opens at 6:30 a.m. Powered by caffeine, begin your hike along the beach or the paved walking path to Palm Street, where you’ll turn left. Head toward the harbor, then take the $1 ferry to Balboa Island. Turn right on South Bay Front after departing the ferry, then turn left onto Marine Avenue and cross the bridge to the mainland. Turn right on Bayside Drive, then walk along that street past the yacht clubs and Coast Guard station, turning right on Fernleaf Avenue, which will take you up to Ocean Boulevard. There, you’ll turn left and head down the stairs across from Heliotrope Avenue to Corona Del Mar State Beach. From here, you can make it all the way to Crystal Cove if the tide is low; otherwise, walk on Ocean Boulevard, take a left on Poppy Avenue, take the PCH and head down the paved trail just past Pelican Point Drive, all the way to the Crystal Cove State Park Historic District.
Crystal Cove Beach Cottages on the hike from Newport Beach to San Clemente.
(Tom Courtney)
Where to stay: The Crystal Cove Beach Cottages are a charming collection of 1920s and 1930s cottages and the site of such Hollywood films as 1920’s “Treasure Island.” (If you can’t get reservations here, start early and combine the hikes for days 1 and 2 into an 11.8-mile hike). The cottages are first come, first serve, so book well in advance. You can get a dormitory-style room for $50 to $146 per night or splurge on a cottage to yourself for $228 to $320 per night.
Where to eat: Order ahi tacos, fried calamari and clam chowder at the Beachcomber, itself a quaint cottage with outdoor seating and spectacular sunset views.
Day 2: Crystal Cove to Laguna Beach. 4.6 miles
The route: Go as far as you can on the beach until cliffs block it, about 1.7 miles, then scramble up the hillside to the PCH, continuing along the sidewalk until you hit Crescent Bay Drive. Make a right and head to the end of the drive, where you’ll take two staircases down to Crescent Bay. If low tide is your friend, hike past picturesque rocky points, looking for tide pools full of sea creatures along the way; if not, climb the stairs just before Crescent Bay to the road and take the first right, cut through Heisler Park, where, depending on the time of year, you’ll find flower gardens exploding with roses, birds of paradise and deep blue Pride of Madeira, then take the stairs at the end to Laguna Beach. Consider an extra day’s stay in Laguna Beach to partake of all the pleasures it has to offer, including live music, dozens of indie art galleries and, if the timing is right, the Pageant of the Masters, where costumed actors re-create classic and contemporary paintings to the tune of a live orchestra.
Soak up the sun — and art scene — along Orange County’s coastline.
Where to stay: Book a room or bungalow with a private patio at the Pacific Edge Hotel ($201 to $250, weekdays, $209 to $274 weekends), a modern stay right on the busy main street of Laguna Beach with views of the ocean from many rooms.
Where to eat: The all-day Deck on Laguna Beach (try the juicy mahi mahi sandwich) and the upscale seafood spot Driftwood Kitchen are both just steps from the hotel.
Day 3: Laguna Beach to Dana Point. 9.5 miles
The route: Sip your morning coffee as you watch some of the best surfing along the 200-mile SoCal Coast walkabout, with experts farther out catching waves up to 10 to 15 feet. Tread the sand of Laguna Beach past Halfway Rock to Cactus Point, the latter a rocky promontory with a tunnel near the surf line. Say goodbye to the beach for now just before Cactus Point, ascending the stairs with a black railing to Pearl Street and then turning right on Ocean Way. Turn left on Moss Street and right on the PCH, right on Victoria Drive and then take the stairs to wide, sandy Victoria Beach. Curve around Golf Island, a narrow peninsula with a hefty rock. Hike to Aliso Beach, heading up the stairs to the cliffs if the tide is high; there you’ll find the Lost Pier Cafe, a snack bar with burgers and other casual food. Round Aliso Point to a second set of stairs, which will take you up to West Street. Turn right on the PCH and stroll to Ritz Carlton Drive. Turn right and walk past the Ritz-Carlton (or you can stay the night, adding three miles to Day 4’s hike instead — and $2,000 to your budget). Take the stairs at the end of the parking lot to Bluff Park and Salt Creek Beach Park, then hike along the shore past a paved roadway that juts onto the beach. You can’t continue on the shore because of the cliffs at Dana Point, so take the stairs .3 mile before Dana Point. At the top, head straight up Ocean Front Lane and turn right on Dana Strand Road. Walk it until it ends, passing through a metal gate that will take you directly into Dana Point Preserve and its visitor center. After a brief stop there to learn about the preserve’s flora and fauna, turn right onto Cove Road and make your way to Dana Point Harbor.
Where to stay: The Dana Point Marina Inn ($125 to $175 weekdays, $144 to $279 on weekends), a modest motel with a small pool and free continental breakfast.
Where to eat: Chomp into crispy Alaskan cod and chips under the heat lamps at Jon’s Fish Market, a cafe that’s a seven-minute stroll from the inn.
Day 4: Dana Point to San Clemente. 6 miles.
San Clemente State Beach.
(Tom Courtney)
The route: Today’s hike takes you along a strip of wide sandy beaches. You’ll go from Doheny State Beach to Capistrano State Park to Poche Beach to San Clemente City Beach.
Start your day by heading from your hotel back to the shoreline at Doheny State Beach. If the tide is low, you’ll be able to wade across San Juan Creek and follow the shoreline all the way to San Clemente Pier. If it’s high tide, and you’re blocked by the seawall protecting the beach development near Poche Beach, head away from the beach toward the Amtrak rails, carefully stepping over them, and onto Park Lantern, walking along that street until it becomes Coast Highway Protected Trail. Alternatively, you can follow a paved bike path from Doheny State Beach to the pier.
Where to stay: The Casa Tropicana Inn ($289 weekdays, $339 weekends) at the San Clemente Pier.
Where to eat: Make your way down the picturesque pier at sunset and request a patio table at the Fisherman’s Restaurant and Bar, where burgers, poke bowls and local Left Coast amber lagers satisfy big appetites.
5
Stage 4: San Clemente to La Jolla
Torrey Pines City Beach on the hike from Oceanside to La Jolla.
(Tom Courtney)
The first part of your day will be getting from San Clemente to Oceanside. Because it’s not possible to hike through Marine Corps Base Camp Pendleton, you’ll have to find your own transportation. You can catch a Metrolink train from the San Clemente Pier to Oceanside on weekends, and Amtrak’s Pacific Surfliner offers twice daily service between the two cities, or hop in a rideshare.
Once you arrive, you can start this three-day hike that crosses the charming seaside towns of Oceanside, Del Mar and La Jolla and several beautiful state beaches. You can do this easy hike any time of year because this part of Southern California is known for having some of the best weather in the country — and by October, the ocean has been generously warmed by the summer sun, making wading and swimming a pleasure.
Trip details
You can do the whole hike on the beach, if the tide is low enough, so check the tide table the evening before venturing out each day (otherwise, take residential streets or the sidewalk or bike lane on the PCH for short sections, then return to the beach when possible). During your trip, you’ll see surfers, shorebirds and possibly even dolphins.
Begin your journey at the Oceanside Harbor or Oceanside Municipal Pier, only a 15-minute walk from the Oceanside train station. If you’re driving, park at the harbor. If you’re not opposed to backtracking 1.7 miles, starting at the Harbor Pelican Deli Mart and Fish Market, 1380 N. Pacific St., gives you a chance to see the sea lions on the same named island across Oceanside Harbor. You can also take the SuperShuttle Express bus or the Pacific Surfliner to Oceanside from San Diego International Airport.
Day 1: Oceanside Marina to South Carlsbad State Beach. 7.7 miles.
The route: Starting from Oceanside Harbor, walk either to the ocean and wade across the San Luis Rey River or cross the Pacific Street Bridge and take the first right on North Coast Village Way to the beach and Oceanside Pier. Walk 3.6 miles along the beach past houses, to Buccaneer Beach Park and Loma Alta Marsh. Your next segment takes you to Buena Vista Lagoon. These lagoons surge and recede with the tides and are an important habitat for migrating birds and native plant species. Walk 5.7 additional miles to Agua Hedionda Lagoon, where you’ll cross two bridges over the water, and then to South Carlsbad State Beach.
Readers agreed with many of our picks for the 50 best beaches in Southern California. They also had some more to recommend, including Hermosa Beach, Pirate’s Cove Beach, Westward Beach and Mandalay Beach.
Where to stay: The Hilton Garden Inn Carlsbad Beach, 6450 Carlsbad Blvd., with rates from $174 to $267 weekdays, $272 to $276 weekends.
Where to eat: Just a few minutes’ walk from the Hilton is the Green Dragon Tavern & Museum, an ode to a famous 18th-century New England tavern, where you can have New England baked cod but also more modern fare like vegetarian artichoke pizza. Otherwise, go for the enchiladas, margaritas and queso dip at Miguel’s Cocina nearby. Or just eat at the Hilton Garden Inn’s restaurant, Coast 6450, which serves shrimp tacos for dinner and a hot buffet for breakfast.
Day 2: South Carlsbad State Beach to Del Mar. 11.9 miles.
The route: Hike to Batiquitos Lagoon, then to Moonlight State Beach, where you’ll be bathed in the scent of the flowers cascading down the steep escarpment above, including lantana, purple sea foam and prickly pear cactus blossoms. Head around the promontory of Swami’s Point, which was named after Paramahansa Yogananda of the Self-Realization Fellowship (George Harrison was a fan). If you crave a bite, climb the steps beyond the point and turn left, passing the hermitage gardens as you go toward Swami’s Cafe for an acai bowl. Head back down to Swami’s Beach, San Elijo Lagoon and San Dieguito Lagoon. Along the way, you may see marbled godwits, snowy egrets and other shorebirds. Cross the lagoon on the bridge, turn right on 29th Street, return to the shore and Del Mar City Beach.
Where to stay: The IHG-owned Hotel Indigo, 710 Camino Del Mar ($199 to $208 weekdays, $341 to $360 weekends), which has such modern comforts as a pool, spa services, an outdoor firepit and a full-service restaurant, the Ocean View Bar & Grill; or the Del Mar Beach Motel ($294 to $364 weekdays, $474 to $524 on weekends), 1702 Coast Blvd., a funky spot on the beach that provides boogie boards, chairs and umbrellas. Consider an extra day in Del Mar to rest and enjoy the people-watching at the beach and the restaurants a block away.
Where to eat: In between the two hotels you can find New American fare at the Beeside Balcony del Mar and slices and wings at Del Mar Pizza.
Day 3: Del Mar to La Jolla. 8.4 miles.
The route: Start at Del Mar City Beach, hiking to the Torrey Pines State Beach parking area and Los Penasquitos Lagoon, where you’ll see our unique native tree, the torrey pine, which is the rarest endemic pine in the New World, growing only at this area and on Santa Rosa Island near Santa Barbara. If you have the time, hike the park road up to the adobe visitors center and museum. Hike back down the Beach Trail from the visitors center through chaparral and sandy bluffs to the shore at Flat Rock, where rain has eroded deep arroyos into the 300-foot sandstone escarpments. Then it’s on to Scripps Pier. Your path may be blocked by a rocky promontory north of the pier if the tide is high. In that case, head back up to the trail on the bluffs and hike to the parking area, then turn right on La Jolla Farms Road, right on La Jolla Shores Drive and then return to the beach. Make your way to La Jolla Shores Beach, where you can swim with leopard sharks measuring up to five feet long. This may amuse you as they wind around your legs. The sharks come to La Jolla from June to December, with their presence peaking in August and September.
At the end of the beach, take a narrow path that passes by a long condo complex. Turn right on Spindrift Drive, right on Torrey Pines Road and right on Coast Walk. Hike the path along the cliffs above La Jolla Bay to La Jolla Cove, where the sea lions are amusing from afar but can be aggressive if you get too close (make sure to keep well away from them).
Where to stay: Rest an extra day at the Inn by the Sea ($222 to $277 weekdays, $244 to $329 weekends), 7830 Fay Ave., which has a relaxed vibe with an outdoor heated pool and in-room breakfast delivery service from the nearby Cottage restaurant. You can rent a stand-up paddleboard or snorkeling gear to enjoy the waterfront (there are local showers to rinse feet when you’re done at the beach or cove). For a more luxurious experience, go for La Valencia Hotel ($475 a night), a four-star inn with a bustling restaurant and bar, also right by the water.
Where to eat: Catania has coastal Italian (Read: plenty of seafood, from octopus to crudo), while Isola Pizza Bar serves upscale Neapolitan pies.
6
Stage 5: La Jolla to Imperial Beach
Marbled gotwits on Pacific Beach on the hike from La Jolla to Imperial Beach.
(Tom Courtney)
The walk to Imperial Beach from La Jolla takes you along some of California’s most picturesque coastline, with long oceanfront sections, an island with a tide pool park and plenty of options for replenishing eats and charming lodging.
Trip details
From the beautiful, touristy town of La Jolla perched on a promontory jutting out into the Pacific and the relaxed atmosphere at Crystal Pier at Pacific Beach, to the upscale restaurants of the Shelter Island Yacht Basin area and the stately Hotel del Coronado, there’s a lot to see and do on this walk.
Day 1: La Jolla to Crystal Pier, Pacific Beach: 5.1 miles
The route: Depart La Jolla Bay and hike the paved pathway along the coast and through Ellen Browning Scripps Park. Leave the pathway at Coast Boulevard Park and hike along the coastal rock shelves and beach to Windansea Beach. Passage is blocked at the southern end by a rocky promontory. Turn inland on the narrow public pathway at the end of the beach. Turn right on Camino de la Costa, right on Chelsea Avenue, right on Dolphin Place, right on Chelsea and left on Sea Ridge Drive. Take the stairway to the beach off Sea Ridge across from Linda Way. Hike the beach to Crystal Pier.
Where to stay: The young at heart will love the ITH San Diego Beach Bungalow Surf Hostel ($32 for shared rooms and $133 for private rooms), a cheerful place that makes crashing for the night easy, with beach chairs and umbrellas to borrow, along with wetsuits and surfboards to rent. If you’d rather not rough it, Catamaran Resort and Spa ($233 to $254 weekdays, $236 to $425 weekends) is a plusher option.
Where to eat: Enjoy casual tacos and burgers at Lahaina Beach House or have a very Californian basil pesto chicken wood-fired pizza at Hideaway.
Tide pools, Windansea Beach, Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, La Jolla Cove, the Taco Stand. There’s plenty to do, see and eat on a weekend trip to La Jolla.
Day 2: Crystal Pier, Pacific Beach to Shelter Island Yacht Basin: 8.5 miles
The route: Walk south from Crystal Pier along the shore or the paved Ocean Front Walk to Belmont Park amusement park. It is easily spotted by the street lights lining Ocean Front Walk and by the wooden roller coaster. Turn inland on Ventura Place to Mission Bay Park. Walk through the park, angling between Bonita Cove on the right and Mariners Way on the left. Continue across the main channel of Mission Bay on West Mission Bay Drive bridge. Leaving the bridge, angle right through the park and walk around Quivira Basin Yacht Harbor. Cross the San Diego River on the Sunset Cliffs Boulevard bridge. Immediately turn right on the bike path along the river to the beach. Turn left on the beach and hike to Ocean Beach Pier. Take the sidewalk under the base of the pier to its end, descend a set of stairs, walk the coastal rock shelves for .3 mile and ascend the first stairs to Santa Cruz Avenue. Walk three blocks and turn right on Sunset Cliffs Boulevard. Walk six blocks on Sunset Cliffs, turn left on Point Loma Avenue and cross over the crest of Point Loma Peninsula. Descend Point Loma Avenue to its end and turn left on Canon Street. Turn left on Rosecrans Street and right on North Harbor Drive. The area around Rosecrans and Harbor forms the Shelter island Yacht Basin neighborhood, where you’ll find lodging.
Where to stay: Comfort Inn at the Harbor ($108 to $151, weekdays, $110 to $204 weekends) does the trick nicely, with a dip in the outdoor pool and a morning top-up at its free breakfast buffet. If you want to keep walking to Spanish Landing Park instead of stopping at Shelter Island Yacht Basin, you can stay at the Sheraton San Diego Hotel & Marina ($165 to $212 daily).
Where to eat: The Sheraton’s restaurant Rumorosa is worth a visit, offering a daily happy hour with Valle del Guadalupe wines and Baja-influenced bar bites, plus killer churro French toast for breakfast.
Day 3: Shelter Island Yacht Basin to Coronado Village: 6.8 miles
The route: Take North Harbor Drive around the northern end of San Diego Bay. Continue along the bay through Spanish Landing Park. Walk the paved hiking and bike path rounding the eastern side of the bay to downtown San Diego and the Broadway Pier. Take the Coronado Island Ferry. It leaves hourly, and a one-way ticket costs $9. Leave the ferry, turn left and walk the paved pathway along the bay. Pass through Coronado Tidelands Park and under the San Diego-Coronado Bridge. Turn right on the paved path at the Coronado Golf Course and left on Glorietta Boulevard, bordering the golf course and past the Coronado Yacht Club. You will see the towering Hotel del Coronado, which is worth a visit even if you’re not staying there. Enter Coronado Village, the area around the hotel.
A moonrise stroll on Hotel del Coronado beach on the hike from La Jolla to Imperial Beach.
(Tom Courtney)
Where to stay: Hotel del Coronado ($516 to $677 weekdays, $579 to $642 weekends) is as pricey as it is legendary, so stop in for a drink or meal and instead consider the Glorietta Bay Inn ($239 to $328 weekdays, $294 to $435 weekends), a 1908 historic landmark.
Where to eat: There are a cluster of hotels in this area of Coronado, most with restaurants. For the tastiest eats, try Eno Market & Pizzeria, which has small tapas-like plates and pizza, or the Beach + Taco Shack, which lives up to its name with grilled fish, achiote shrimp and vegetarian chile relleno tacos. Both are at the Hotel del Coronado.
Day 4: Coronado Village to Imperial Beach Municipal Pier: 8.1 miles
The route: Walk through the grounds of the Hotel del Coronado to the beach, turn left and hike to the Silver Strand State Beach parking lot. Continue along the shore to Imperial Beach Municipal Pier.
Where to stay: Choose from two beachfront places: the spartanSand Castle Inn ($152 to $251 weekdays, $160 to $370 weekends) and a more well-appointed Autograph collection hotel, the Pier South ($212 to $308 weekdays, $276 to $404 weekends).
Where to eat: Toasted is a reliable mini-chain with truffle steak frites, crispy chicken sandwiches and local Ballast Point Sculpin. The Pizza Port Brewing Company and Pizzeria Luigi both have meat and vegan pies, and there are also two Thai restaurants nearby, Aroma Thai and Siam Imperial Kitchen.
Dozens of beachgoers near the water at Imperial Beach.
(Tom Courtney)
