11 awe-inspiring things to do in Carmel Valley that take you beyond the quaint seaside
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You may be familiar with Carmel-by-the-Sea, a tiny, old world village near the Pacific Ocean where you can sample chocolates or hunt for Jane Austen novels in cottages plucked straight from a fairy tale. But understated Carmel Valley, which stretches inland to the east where it’s substantially warmer, deserves its own visit. Fair warning: You may find yourself staying a while.
Carmel Valley isn’t “wine country,” as many believe — it’s much more low-key than that. It’s an expanse of farmland influenced by the cold ocean coming off the Monterey Bay and warm winds from the surrounding Santa Lucia Mountains, giving way for beautiful scenery dotted with indie businesses. Once a place where cowboys and ranchers would venture to refill their provisions, the valley retains a distinct cowboy culture, especially in the charming downtown known as Carmel Valley Village. Not overly developed, and definitely not over-hipsterfied, the area has become a hideaway for solace-seeking Angelenos. You never know if recently-made-local Brad Pitt will be popping into dive bar Running Iron, a Carmel Valley staple.
About This Guide
Our journalists independently visited every spot recommended in this guide. We do not accept free meals or experiences. What should we check out next? Send ideas to guides@latimes.com.
In 2020, I moved to this town from New York, settling in a home up a canyon with views across the entire valley. Here, I found my retreat. Life is filled with quiet, dog-friendly beach walks and hikes through the redwoods of Garland Ranch. My favorite thing to do is pure and simple: Sit on a quiet beach, arm in arm with my husband, and watch the sunset.
Carmel Valley has plenty to do, whether you’re looking for outdoor adventures, western vibes or if you’re just wanting to put away your phone and meander. Here are some of the best things to do, see and eat during your stay.
Showing Places
(Tancredi & Morgen)
Try a little Française shopping at Tancredi & Morgen
Monterey Home Goods
Walking into this artisan shop is like stepping through a portal to France, Mexico City or wherever else members of the Aldis family find themselves. Marsha and Roger, along with their twin daughters, Megan and Gwynneth, stock everything from hand-blown glass and vintage silver to textiles, both new and vintage. “A quiet secret, yet something we’re known for — our ever-growing collection of hand-sourced vintage Champagne bowls,” says Megan, adding that the treasures arrive from Lyon, France.
Open since 1987, Tancredi & Morgen celebrates the beauty of the utilitarian — objects that are meant to be used yet can stand alone as works of art. Each piece holds history, a quiet story traced in its grain, weave or patina. The store has become a go-to stop for celebrities looking for one-of-a kind items from around the globe.
Open since 1987, Tancredi & Morgen celebrates the beauty of the utilitarian — objects that are meant to be used yet can stand alone as works of art. Each piece holds history, a quiet story traced in its grain, weave or patina. The store has become a go-to stop for celebrities looking for one-of-a kind items from around the globe.
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(Folktale Winery & Vineyards)
Get your brunch fix at Folktale Winery
Monterey Winery
Greg and Madigan Ahn are native Angelenos (and middle-school sweethearts) who’ve been in Carmel for 20 years. They opened Folktale in 2015, inspired by the idea that in every great bottle of wine is a story. The artisanal wines are crafted locally in Carmel Valley. Greg recommends ordering a chilled carbonic red wine caled New Love because “drinking crisp red wine is absolutely the thing to do.”
Over the past decade, Folktale has become a hot spot for superb brunch and a superb place to listen to live music. The winery often hosts artists on tour just before they become household names, including Kaleo, Black Pumas, One Republic and Darius Rucker. On Sundays, there’s a special “bubble brunch” with seasonal California-inspired dishes.
Over the past decade, Folktale has become a hot spot for superb brunch and a superb place to listen to live music. The winery often hosts artists on tour just before they become household names, including Kaleo, Black Pumas, One Republic and Darius Rucker. On Sundays, there’s a special “bubble brunch” with seasonal California-inspired dishes.
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(Hacienda Hay & Feed)
Put on your boots and go line dancing at Hacienda Hay & Feed
Monterey Community Center
Since 1940, this historic property has been a community favorite, a market and family-run hacienda where local farmers would come to get their supplies, including — you guessed it — hay and feed. With a recent renovation, the spot has brought back the chicken coop, a blacksmith, a bunny barn plus a petting zoo, as well as an annual harvest festival and holiday events. But what’s most exciting is the addition of line dancing, happening on Saturday nights, rain or shine. You can learn the Grapevine — step to the side, cross behind, step to the side, step back to first — delivered in a western style. “This multigenerational tradition is more than just dancing,” says Nile Estep, owner of Hacienda Hay & Feed. “It’s about laughter, friendship and the shared joy of movement.” For those who prefer to stay off the dance floor, there’s also Friday night bingo.
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(Michael Petronaci)
Get outside for a hike in Garland Ranch Regional Park
Monterey Park
With more than 60 miles of trails, this is where cyclists, hikers and joggers in Carmel Valley come for sunshine and fresh air.
You can opt for an easy stroll on Lupine Loop, which is flat and just 1.5 miles, or a more intense 3.4-mile loop to La Mesa and Mesa Pond, returning by a waterfall, which will take about an hour. Or if you’re feeling up to the challenge, hike Snivley’s Ridge Trail, which boasts the biggest elevation gain with 4,215 feet up the Santa Lucia Mountains. The loop could take eight hours, as it is over 14 miles, but it comes with iconic views across Big Sur and the Pacific Ocean. The trails are dog-friendly, so go ahead and saddle up with your pup.
There’s parking right off Carmel Valley Road and you can cross the bridge to get into the park. A secret spot for a swim — very fun with the dogs — is right beneath the entrance bridge under the trees. The water is pure from the mountains and incredibly refreshing. Open 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.
You can opt for an easy stroll on Lupine Loop, which is flat and just 1.5 miles, or a more intense 3.4-mile loop to La Mesa and Mesa Pond, returning by a waterfall, which will take about an hour. Or if you’re feeling up to the challenge, hike Snivley’s Ridge Trail, which boasts the biggest elevation gain with 4,215 feet up the Santa Lucia Mountains. The loop could take eight hours, as it is over 14 miles, but it comes with iconic views across Big Sur and the Pacific Ocean. The trails are dog-friendly, so go ahead and saddle up with your pup.
There’s parking right off Carmel Valley Road and you can cross the bridge to get into the park. A secret spot for a swim — very fun with the dogs — is right beneath the entrance bridge under the trees. The water is pure from the mountains and incredibly refreshing. Open 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.
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(Lady & Larder)
Order your cheese board of dreams at Lady & Larder
Monterey Cheese Shop
Family-owned Lady & Larder is the apple of L.A.’s eye when it comes to gorgeous things to feast on — cheese and charcuterie boards, sandwiches and a secret menu that everyone gushes about. Fans can now find a location in Carmel Valley, where the founders are originally from. Bursting with fresh flowers and plants, the shop is delightful, featuring a menu that comes from a simple ethos. “Deliver nothing short of the very best,” says Sarah Simms, who founded the company with her late sister Boo Simms. “Time and again, we’ve found that unparalleled quality emerges from the dedicated hands of local, small-batch artisans.”
If you’re an Angeleno visiting Carmel Valley and don’t wish to lug home a suitcase full of cheese, you can become a member of the Lady & Larder Cheese Club and get a monthly delivery of hand-selected artisanal cheeses. That way, you’ll always have cheese for entertaining, or for snacking solo, whichever happens first.
If you’re an Angeleno visiting Carmel Valley and don’t wish to lug home a suitcase full of cheese, you can become a member of the Lady & Larder Cheese Club and get a monthly delivery of hand-selected artisanal cheeses. That way, you’ll always have cheese for entertaining, or for snacking solo, whichever happens first.
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(Michael Petronaci)
Meet real cowboys — not just bar-hoppers in cowboy hats — at the Running Iron
Monterey Saloon
This rustic institution, formerly known as Stirrup Cup, has a reputation for rowdiness. But of course, that is where all the fun bides. Although it’s more of a saloon now, serving up burgers, sandwiches and prime rib on Fridays, the Running Iron stays true to its roots as a cowboy hub. Classic cowboy boots hang from the ceiling and lively tunes pipe through a jukebox (or, on some nights, via a live band). The crowd is usually a mix of wealthy folks from Texas, deep-into-the-valley ranch residents, actual cowboys and plenty of out-of-towners looking for stiff drinks and some fun. When you park yourself in this downbeat little village for an evening, magic just seems to happen.
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(Paul Dyer / Bernardus Lodge)
Rest your head and calm your mind at Bernardus Lodge
Monterey Lodging
In recommending places to stay to out-of-town friends, the Bernardus Lodge is a discreet favorite among locals and a place that captures the Carmel Valley spirit. Designed with a country-style trad aesthetic, the rooms and suites have cozy fireplaces and views of the mountains and vineyards. And the spa is the finest in the valley — hey, you’ve come to Carmel to find peace in its meditative pace, right? Beyond massages and facials, you can book private wellness experiences such as tarot card readings and moon manifestations where you’ll “harness universal forces to align intentions.” Some solid advice for your time here is to wake up before dawn, stroll around the 20 acres of rolling vineyards, watch the sun coming up over the mountains and find the herb and vegetable gardens (which provide ingredients for dishes at the lodge’s fabulous restaurant, Lucia). Then take a whiff of all that’s in season.
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(Michael Petronaci)
Swirl your glass of wine at the I. Brand & Family Tasting Room
Monterey Tasting Room
Stationed in the historic vineyards around the Monterey Bay, this family-owned winery is where people come to find wines made in the new California style, where wines are vinified quickly and released soon after bottling. Stop into the sleek tasting room in the village and try I. Brand’s Chardonnay 2022 from the Escolle Vineyard 2022 — it’s bright and intense from the windswept northern Santa Lucia Highlands, with aromatics of Meyer lemon and nutty pralines. Ian Brand, winemaker and owner, has been exploring Monterey County terroir for almost two decades, expanding the concept of what local wine can and should be. “In my heart of hearts, I am a winemaking classicist — even our ‘village level’ Paysan wines aged beautifully for a decade or more,” he says.
More than half of the 25 wines produced annually are tasting room and club exclusives. I. Brand is open for tastings Thursday through Monday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
More than half of the 25 wines produced annually are tasting room and club exclusives. I. Brand is open for tastings Thursday through Monday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
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(Cafe Rustica)
It's time for pizza pie at Cafe Rustica
Monterey Restaurant
Once a Clint Eastwood favorite haunt (he was the mayor of Carmel-by-the-Sea in the 1980s), this pizza joint is a locally beloved Carmel Valley restaurant. Although it’s known for its wood-fired pizzas, it also has all kinds of Euro-delights, from escargots à la Bourguignonne (snails in butter) to Alsatian flammekueche (a sort of tart-pizza hybrid from the Alsace region of France). When the weather is nice — which, to be clear, is most of the time — the cozy, rustic patio is a place where you’ll want to hang out for as long as your schedule allows.
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(Michael Petronaci)
Drive through tall and fragrant trees on Eucalyptus Tree Row
Monterey Historical Landmark
A slow drive through towering 150-year-old eucalyptus trees? Why not? Roll your windows down and inhale as you make your way down this unusual street lined with 33 Eucalyptus globulus trees, which have an average girth of 22 feet. The trees were planted between 1874 and 1881 by Nathan Weston Spaulding during the species’ peak popularity in California for landscaping. At the time, malaria was a major cause of illness in the state, Eucalyptus leaves were believed to provide a number of health benefits — warding off infections, purifying the air, relieving asthma symptoms and more. The oils were, and still are, used in medicines and health products. The blossoms on these trees, which are listed on the National Register of Historic Places, offer abundant nectar for bees, hence all the local honey you’ll find in Carmel Valley. Carmel Valley Road-Boronda Road Eucalyptus Tree Row is located on Boronda Road, right off Carmel Valley Road.
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