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https://www.hfqpdb.com/ And coupons on your phone work.

I'd lube it up with high-temperature grease just to allow it to move a bit - you don't want pipes eventually rubbing through.

I actually have one of those (I think it is a 200w draw or so, 1000w equiv) for my office. It lights it up like daylight and is really nice. Got the idea from HN: https://www.benkuhn.net/lux and the same week Menards had a sweet rebate on one. :bigdumbgrin: :bigdumbgrin:

No! We must continue suggesting stranger and stranger bulbs until you confess! Next up is corn-cob lights!

A different style bulb may be closer - a PAR 30 would fit in a normal socket.

I seem to recall having seen bulbs with half already reflective.

I would assume it depends on how your workshop is setup, but there might be a minor safety difference. https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/bett ... ight-tilt/

If you haven't noticed the lack of insulation up to now, it might not be worth spending a ton of effort on insulation - but there do exist insulation that you can install through access holes - both blown (you can rent a blower at Home Depot) and foam (needs a crew with the equipment)...

Often the nails/screws are really just to hold the wood together as the glue dries - even simple joints can be incredibly strong with the right glue. Where hardware can come in useful is if you're mixing types of wood and need to let one move compared to another (plywood vs hardwood, etc) -...

The overhead of encrypting inflight would probably be heavier than just having the dataset encrypted. It should be possible to have multiple backups of the keys (including printed etc) so as to make key loss a negligible chance. Put it on a sticker on the drive(s) itself.

Home Depot at least does it proportionally - buy a $200 with a free $99 battery, return battery get $66 back.

A trick that works on tools sold by Home Depot - they often do a “buy X get free battery Y” - and if you look at the receipt it has proportionally allocates the price of the battery. So buy the deal and return the tool, keep the battery (or vice Versa).

The secret to the cordless stuff is the tools are close to free - it's the batteries they want you to buy. BUT - if you're not using them heavily, having multiple brands doesn't really hurt you much as you're unlikely to go through a whole battery anyway. And even if you stay with one brand you...

Based on your pictures you have them butted up against each other - I assume you want glass doors to see the LEGO - and you’ll want to be able to open them. That’ll dictate how the doors are attached/spaced. Either way the carcass should be pretty similar.

Do you have a router? That should make the door part pretty simple assuming you can the clamps. I want one of these: https://www.rockler.com/rockler-miter-f ... o-set-plus but it wouldn’t fit my table saw. And I need to get a router table first anyway. Observe what I have to resist...

If I were building bookshelves with doors for the first time I’d make my doors the exact same size as standard cabinet doors you can find at a Home Depot or similar so that if I messed up the doors I’d have a workable fallback. Or start with some plywood shelves that can be put in the garage...

It’s like a reality show for some of these people - they need to create drama. Remember the “candles” tweet? It’s just that writ large.

Pine boards and even MDF are plenty strong in shelf lengths of supported on corners at least.

Those edgeglued boards are real nice - I used pine for some shelving and have no complaints.

As for the pipe - are you planning to use galvanized pipe? If so I suspect you could paint it but in reality the amount of rust you'll get in an indoor situation is extremely small, and adds to the patina anyway. If I were doing it I'd do it the simple way and use floor flanges and lots of them...