The Great Salmon Secret

It pays to make friends with your fishmonger. A good one will let you in on all kinds of secrets. For example, one of the best parts of the salmon usually goes in the trash (or what the fishmonger himself doesn’t take home does).

This is the belly flap, a thin strip of very fatty meat. You always get it when you buy a whole side of salmon, but somehow it mysteriously disappears when you buy salmon by the filet. Most people think the belly flap is a worthless piece of meat. If you find it for sale at all, it’ll be in economical things such as chowder mixes.

The guy working the fish counter at my local supermarket said he loves it, but people won’t buy it, so he throws it out. If I want some, he told me, let him know. He was sorry, but he’d have to charge me 5 cents a pound because the store wouldn’t let him give it away.

The belly is actually the richest part of the salmon, fatty and full-flavored. So rich, in fact, that you wouldn’t want to eat it by itself. But try broiling it like this and then serving it as part of a salad for a light spring dinner. You’ll want to keep the dressing really tart with mustard to cut the unctuousness of the fish.

If you can’t procure bellies, you can use regular filets, cut in thin lengthwise strips.

Menu

Crisp Salmon Salad

Rustic Bread

Mixed Seasonal Fruits

Crisp Salmon Salad

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes

1 pound salmon filets, preferably belly cut

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1/4 cup olive oil

1/2 pound mixed salad greens

* Cut salmon in lengthwise strips about 1/2 inch wide. Salt and pepper generously on both sides. Broil, skin side up, until skin is crisp and dark brown, 7 to 10 minutes, depending on thickness of meat.

* While salmon is broiling, beat together mustard and vinegar in small bowl. Gradually add oil, beating steadily until dressing forms smooth emulsion.

* Add half of dressing to salad greens and toss well to mix. Add enough extra dressing that greens are lightly but thoroughly coated. Divide greens among 4 plates and arrange salmon strips on top. Serve immediately with extra dressing to pass.

4 servings. Each serving: 268 calories; 299 mg sodium; 50 mg cholesterol; 19 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 19 grams protein; 0.60 gram fiber.

Countdown

20 minutes before: Preheat broiler, slice and season salmon.

15 minutes before: Cut up fruit for dessert and combine in bowl with sugar. Slice bread.

10 minutes before: Begin broiling salmon.

5 minutes before: Make dressing. Dress greens and divide among plates.

Before serving: Remove salmon from broiler and arrange on top of salad.

Ingredients

Staples

Dijon mustard

Red wine vinegar

Olive oil

Sugar

Shopping List

1 pound salmon filets, preferably belly cut

Mixed salad greens

Rustic bread

Fresh fruit